sólo vives una vez

I always feel like I'm not living completely in the present during goodbyes. I space out. I'm always lacking sleep for some reason. There are always other factors, like the fear of change or what comes next after a goodbye, because it means something new is happening, or that something is going away. This is how I feel with my goodbye to Mexico. Of course, because I am lucky and my family lives so close, it is probably more like a "see you later", especially because we did not achieve our goal of visiting the land of our ancestors (timing was difficult). Right now I am stuffed, tired, grumpy, pmsing (let's be honest), and I'm nervous for what comes after Mexico. I'll be in Houston for two weeks and then in Fort Collins, and I know that once I find that routine/balance again with my school life, things will be great, but until then things may be a bit rocky. I didn't experience much cultural shock coming home from Spain last summer, but my life was different then, and my family in Spain was less than sweet. This time, I know I will experience something, but as my teacher in Spain told us, when we feel uncomfortable, it means we're learning something, or that we learned something. I'll take my uneasiness for what comes next as a good sign that I enjoyed my time here, and that I met some people that truly mean a lot to me (mostly my amazing friends from the program, my family, the women at Las Libres, and the women in the prison in Guanajuato), and that I learned some invaluable lessons. So, although I am not as present and awake in the moment as I'd like to be, I know that Guanajuato has a special, irreplaceable place in my heart...

and I like to think the feeling is mutual.

Bienvenidos- would you like mint or orange-scented pillows?

Here's the update: I had a very tough goodbye with my family and roommates in Guanajuato. I hugged a few people and then I hugged Sam and my senora and felt the tears coming. I have this overly-emotional button that gets pressed during EVERY goodbye. The same thing happened in Spain last summer. I was leaving my roommate and hugged Jose Luis, our teacher that was there with us, and just lost it... so I knew what to expect of myself this time. After my goodbye I headed to San Miguel with my sister to stay at a Bed and Breakfast and to do some serious shopping with serious prices. However, I think I've officially gotten presents for everyone I needed to get them for, so that's the silver lining.

Next we headed to Guadalajara to visit our friend Liliana. I can tell you all for sure that two days is not nearly enough to see a sufficient part of Guadalajara. We visited the downtown area and saw El Palacio, the Plaza de Armas, the cathedral, and amazing murals painted by Jose Clemente Orozco. We also went out to dance at a club called Wall Street. The joke is that my sister will soon be moving to NYC and working in finance.

We headed to Puerto Vallarta, unprepared for the long trip ahead of us with the loud teenage boys sitting in the back of the bus. Eventually, we made it. We're staying at Villa Premiere Hotel & Spa...and it's exactly how it sounds. With all the complaints of damn capitalism and gringos and the U.S.-Mexico relationship flowing through my mind, I have to admit, I am having an amazing time. We walked in and immediately received champagne with cherries and cold towels for our faces. Soon after we received massages...and I realized this trip would be very, very, very enjoyable. We were also asked which scents we wanted sprayed on our pillows, and which type of pillows we wanted. We spent some time at the pool and went to a Cuban restaurant called La Bodeguita del Medio for dinner. I came back to my minty pillows, and I'm prepared to sleep very very well.

Buenas noches :)

The Homestretch

This picture is the billboard that was sponsored by Las Libres a few years back. It was anonymously taken down during election times (surprise surprise... actually it is kind of shocking). It is a good breakdown of the facts. Tomorrow is my last day at Las Libres and I have to finish my application as best as I can, and then pass it on to Sam and whoever else will be volunteering at Las Libres (assuming there are more ISA students). Today I went to el cereso for the last time with another volunteer from the U.S. named Amanda and we visited with the women for a long time. I ended up buying a clutch and a purse made by one of them. This is the way the women make money (though it isn't much). One of the women, the one that's almost always smiling (despite being sentenced to 26 years), offered us coffee and pastries (and of course I said yes- wouldn't want to be rude). The women have welcomed me into what was forcibly made their home (temporarily) with so much kindness. When it finally came time for us to say goodbye, I was a little emotional. I told them it was a privilege to have met them. Some of them bought it, some of them didn't care- because they are in a prison for something that happened to them, or something they did, with their bodies. I feel I've gotten particularly close with one of the women and I would love to mention her name, but when in doubt I choose to not use names. She was the first woman to give me the benefit of the doubt, despite my shy and incorrect Spanish, from the beginning of my time at Las Libres. This is why I can't confidently send in my grant application, without tons of people reading over it first. It may be difficult, being in a different country than those working on it, but I'm going to make sure it gets plenty of attention after I leave, because as of now, it's not ready for it's debut by any means. Each of these women's defense costs thousands of dollars (yes, dollars), so I'm truly hoping my request for $50,000 USD is okayed.

Although I told the women that it was a privilege to meet them, I still feel that I haven't expressed how I feel about meeting them to the extent that I wanted to, so I'm going to send letters to Las Libres from the U.S. to give to the women.

In other news, my sister landed last night in Guanajuato, and I was ecstatic to see her here. What is making this trip even better is the fact that she was offered a job in NYC, and she's going to accept it. I am SO happy for and proud of her! She is a great person and has waited long enough for this kind of opportunity. I don't even want to think of her living in NYC and not in a place that I even visit, but I can imagine her being happy there, so it's what's best. I'm going to see her there, one way or another...and tonight, we're going out with all of my roommates for a goodbye and celebrating fiesta. My sister's birthday is also tomorrow, and I think this trip plus a job offer in NYC is a pretty good present for her (along with what I have to give her tomorrow).

P.S. I'm definitely having at least one benefit (my roommates have yet to find out) for Las Libres. College kids- or at least the humanitarian ones I hang out with- will pay to help these women (I hope). They are my friends. I think they'd want to help my other friends in Mexico...

Who's ready to party for women's freedom?

Vamos México

Friday night was a fun one. I ate at a restaurant in the Jardin with a bunch of my group for a goodbye dinner. Afterwards I went with my friend Allison to meet up with people and take a cab to Fusilado, the mezcal bar I mentioned in the previous post. I was initially very hopeful to try mezcal- I had even heard of cinnamon apple and strawberry flavors. However, upon trying mezcal, I changed my mind. It all tastes the same to me, but it was worth the experience. The bar is owned by a few crude American men that are pretty fun to hang out with, though I wouldn't take them to a tea party. We played a game of f*ck the dealer (hope no one's offended!). This is a game I am familiar with from multiple college parties...always a good time. Afterwards we went back to Guanajuato to visit people at Why Not for many of their last night in Guanajuato. I took many-a-goodbye picture with some of the coolest people I've met, and afterwards we went to El Bar, where, because my salsa skills are sub par (I stopped taking classes), and because there is a plethora of older men that like to dance with me, I sat and chatted with friends. I said goodbye to everyone- the real goodbye- and took a cab home, unprepared to wake up at 6:15 AM to travel to D.F. (Mexico City).
Sam and I woke up, in a daze, gathered up our stuff and took off for the bus station, and then to D.F. The trip takes about four and a half hours, but they played movies and the buses were relatively comfortable. We got to D.F. and had trouble finding our hotel, then had trouble because check-in wasn't until 3, and then were told they reserved a room for us at another hotel. It was a complicated situation. Initially I wasn't too upset because the hotel we ended up in was about $25 for each of us when we split the cost, but it would've been worth it to stay elsewhere, as I awoke, half-rested, with 30 mosquito bites, and not just any bites- I'm allergic. So basically now I have huge red spots all over my arms and face (luckily the ones on my face are going away pretty quickly). On top of this, I felt pretty sick (stomach-wise) for some of the trip as well. It was bad timing! However, despite these setbacks, we had a pretty good time. We saw a gigantic LGBT pride parade, which already made me feel like I was back in my Diversity and Social Justice comfort zone from school. Afterwards we walked around and ate at an Argentine restaurant and watched the U.S. leave the World Cup.
The next day we saw our other favorite team, Mexico, leave the World Cup, but it was a cooler experience because we were in El Zocalo in the Historic District of D.F., watching the game with 92,000 other people. We also visited El Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts), the Palace in El Zocalo with murals done by Diego Rivera that tell the history of Mexico, el Templo Mayor (remains of a temple from ancient times), and probably other things I can't think of right now. By the end of our trip, we realized D.F. is too huge to see in two days, and that someday we'd like to return. However, I was elated to return to Guanajuato to rest in a familiar place...without so many mosquitos.
Today I started another week at Las Libres and brought Sam with me. She is beginning her work there just as Jecca and I are leaving. It is very difficult to fathom that this is my last week in Guanajuato and at Las Libres. I believe I'll get to visit el cereso one more time on Thursday, and I want to finish my application in Spanish and English by Friday. By Wednesday, I will have my sister here with me so I can show her around my new beloved city. Afterwards, we'll travel to San Miguel, Puerto Vallarta, Guadalajara, Teocaltiche (where our great grandparents are from), and to Leon... but I don't want to get ahead of myself. I still have one week in this amazing city, and I'm going to utilize it well. I want to finish my work at Las Libres and pass it on to Sam and other volunteers (perhaps) in an organized manner. I want to relish in the time I have left with my host family here- I want to go out with my host brother and his crazy friends that stay out until 7 AM (After all, when in Mexico...). I'm going to make this one count, and I'd love to return in December or next summer, money and time permitting.

Right as Rain

Hey, everyone!
It's been a while since I've last updated, but this week has been pretty tame so I don't have too many updates. This week at Las Libres I've finally begun the home stretch toward finishing my grant application. We also visited the women in el cereso on Tuesday, which is always a heartwarming experience because they are all so kind, and they're (many of them are) full of hope, because they have to be. These past few nights have been rough (but fun) because each time I've gotten home around 3AM and then I get to bed around 4, so I wore myself out for tonight and this weekend. Last night, before going out to the bars, we went to a "goodbye party" at ISA, where they had a mariachi band and some delish food...but the goal is to not stay out too late tonight because Sam and I are getting up very early to head to Mexico (D.F.) in the morning. We'll get to see some amazing things, and I'm pretty sure we'll be exhausted.
The coolest part of our trip (or at least one of the coolest parts) will be watching the World Cup game between Argentina and Mexico (VAMOS MEXICO) in el Zocalo. There is an estimated turnout of 100,000 people. So, although many of my good friends here are leaving to return to the U.S. today, tomorrow, and Sunday, I know I will have that time to look forward to, with 100,000 of my other closest friends. We're pretty siked.
Meanwhile, I'm resting up for tonight when we go to Fusilado, a bar named after death by firing of guns (in general and specifically referring to a time when that happened at the nearby plaza- a long time ago). It's a mezcal bar, and mezcal is a strong liquor that comes from cactus... It's like tequila, but stronger (Well, we'll see after tonight).
We're sending the summer 1 students out with a bang. They will enjoy their last night tonight.

Peñon

Where do I even begin? I missed work at Las Libres Thursday and Friday because I'm sick and also because we went on an excursion to Cristo Rey, a HUGE statue of Jesus in the geographical center of Mexico. I personally have always been afraid of big statues because I feel like they are going to come to life and smush me, but it was a site to see. The surroundings were also beautiful. We made it back to Guanajuato. Once again I was under the influence (Dramamine). Sam and I spent some time walking around the city to look for presents for people back home (It was a success).

Saturday morning we awoke at 6:15 AM to eat and meet the others at Jardin Cantador to go to Peñon. We had no idea what we were in for. We made it to the camp grounds and then hiked 30 minutes to get to where we'd be staying. Afterwards, we played "team-building" games on a gravel court. This is around the time we found out that it was originally a camp for kids ages 8-13. It's hard to describe the activities we did, but I'd say they were all comparable to that embarrassing game on field day where we had to run to the other end of the field and sit on a balloon to pop it. Needless to say, it was a good time. After lunch we broke off into small groups and went ziplining, repelling, rock climbing, and did a ropes course. It was an awesome time, and I definitely almost peed my pants before repelling, but it was actually pretty fun. After these activities, although it was cool and windy, I ziplined (with other people) into the water. No regrets from this trip. We also stayed in cabins crowded with bunk beds (after roasting strawberry-flavored marshmellows in a camp fire). No regrets. I actually probably slept better than I do in my bed in Guanajuato because there was less noise.

Today we left the campsite in a truck (instead of hiking back down). We all piled into the backs of trucks for a super bumpy ride. As expected (because I am cynical), people made Mexican-smuggling jokes. I thought about how ironic it was, being in Mexico, where the people have been so welcoming to all of us... yet some of the people in my group still act like they are owed a trip full of English and air conditioning. Some people say I'm too sensitive, but after studying what I have the privilege to study in college, I can't ignore these comments, the irony of them, and the heavy feeling they give me. I've also heard homophobic comments that I'm almost positive would offend many of my good friends, so they hurt me too. I probably share these feelings with people here half of the time I'm feeling them. In sum, I've been thinking a lot about what my major has provided me with and I've been struggling with how to put it to good use. I do realize I will probably say something today about a certain group of people that I will regret tomorrow, but I'm open to learning about how it offends people.

Over all, however, I have met some really amazing people during my trip here so far. I definitely will be keeping in touch with many of them, especially because so many live in Colorado and Texas. With the other half of people, Facebook will have to do. I think I'm beginning to write about goodbyes because the majority of our group leaves this upcoming Saturday. It is so sad to think about, but I'm excited that I get to stay two extra weeks (one to volunteer, one to travel with my sister). I'll still be here with Sam, Jecca, Traci, David, and Holly...and next weekend Sam and I will be in Mexico City. Que chido, guey.

Until next time, chavos, I'm going to keep listening to the Rubber Soul album by The Beatles and resting.

Cuidanse,
Blair

Que viene que va

If you're wondering what this thing is that I'm eating in the picture, it's a lollipop/candy thing that the moms and teachers at the school we visited today gave us. We gave the "escuela primeria" (elementary school + middle school) another shot today. We crammed seven people in a sedan to head to San Jose de La Luz, an outlying town in Guanajuato. The kids at La Escuela Primeria de Emiliano Zapata are generally well-behaved (except for when in groups of 250, like the first time we went to visit...yep). Today we went with Alex, Grecia, and Karime, three college students from Queretaro, another city in Guanajuato, the state, to the school. The three students are staying at Las Libres and have taken it upon themselves to start an after-school fun/learning program for the kids in this area, and then to eventually schedule a free breakfast for their mothers, to get to know the people of the area and their needs better.
Today my roommate Jecca and I helped lead a workshop or taller with Alex for the boys in fifth, sixth, and seventh grades about sexual health. Yep, you read correctly. Alex did a really great job. Jecca and I, while we were nervous initially that our maturity levels did not exceed those of the boys there, also did alright. Alex led most of the workshop and would ask us questions like, "What is your perspective on why this time in your lives is not the right time to have kids?", and also "What is important to you about love?" The kids also were interested in what "smackdown" and "raw" mean, as they watch a lot of lucha libre (Free fighting, like wrestling). They also asked us if there's a lot of snow where we come from, and if we believe in saints too in the U.S. We answered accordingly.
My experience at La Escuela Primeria was much better this time than the last. The same mothers/teachers that gave us chocolate also insisted that we eat tacos they had made for the children at lunch time, and they were truly amazing. The shells were fried right in front of us, and then had whatever we wanted stuff into them. I got potatoes and red chile in mine. mm. I should probably stop thinking about it.
Unfortunately, being around a bunch of kids every now and then and around a bunch of college kids means I run a high risk of getting sick. I woke up this morning with a pretty sore throat. Luckily, my host parents are a nurse and a surgeon. So, I've taken 6 Ibuprofen pills today and if I'm not better by tomorrow, I may be on antibiotics. Ick.
This week has been pretty tame so far. I have just been trying to fill out the application for the grant from Open Society Institute. It is hard to be so pressed for time, but I feel pretty confident that I can do a good job with the application this week and the next two weeks. I also will have other things to do, but that's my main project.
Tomorrow intercambios and fun! Thursday nights are big here (especially if Mexico wins against France tomorrow!!! My Texas peeps, watch the game at 1:30. My Colorado peeps, at 12:30).
This weekend- Peñon. We're traveling to the mountains to spend some time in nature with our whole group (those that aren't going to Mexico City instead). We'll do team-building activities and leave our Ipods at home. I think it should be a good time. We're going to hike and do ropes course stuff.

Que les vaya bien, abrazos,
Blair

It's always rainy in Guanajuato (in June)

Hola, chicas/chicos,

This weekend has been extremely eventful. I have to admit, I left Las Libres early on Friday because I was too antsy sitting there on my own. Everyone else had moved on to their weekends, and Mexico and South Africa had just tied in a game... so it was time for me to go home and eat an amazing lunch with my "family". However, these next two weeks I really need to get to work. I guess I'm a little intimidated to know that I could- or could not- affect the sentences of these women in el cereso. However, applying for funds could not harm the situation, so I'm really going to get to work... especially because my sister is coming in a few weeks! GAAAH so excited :)

Friday night I went on an adventure with friends to find their friend David's house to attend a house party. We were super excited to find the house when, suddenly, it was raining harder than I've experienced in a while. (If you're wondering, there's no term for 'raining cats and dogs' in Spanish.) On top of that, I always seem to be wearing my super stylish and super un-waterproof shoes when it rains like this, and there are hills everywhere, so the shoes just are not ideal for this season in general, though they are cute. We eventually gave up on finding his house and went to El Centro to go grab tacos at my favorite taco joint, then to go to Zilch, probably my favorite bar here so far, and then to hang out on the roof to see the whole city, all beautiful and lit up. I drank an Elefante Blanco. We ventured home relatively early (on Mexican time) and prepared to go to San Miguel in the morning.

We left for Dolores Hidalgo and San Miguel de Allende early in the morning on Saturday. First we went to Dolores Hidalgo to see the church at which began the fight for Mexican Independence (for my family- it's where Father Miguel Hidalgo did el grito...and you have to respect el grito). Also in Dolores Hidalgo, we stopped for ice cream, but not just any ice cream- the flavors consisted of tequila, shrimp with octopus, guanabana...I tried all of those, but only bought vanilla "especial". Afterwards we went to los Balnearios, which are naturally occurring hot/warm/cool springs that you can swim in. Then we headed to San Miguel, and I was on a mission. My friend Leticia from high school has family in San Miguel and told me to visit three places: La Cucaracha (bar), Mamma Mia (Italian restaurant), and San Augustin (churro restaurant). I could not have been happier with these places, particularly with the food. I was elated, despite the fact that my mango margarita cost the same as my margherita pizza. It was worth it- absolutely delish. Afterwards we walked around the centro a bit. I succesfully found a scarf and a skeleton ornament (for my family's obsession with Dia de los Muertos). Upon buying the scarf, my friend Kathy and I learned exactly what it feels like to be hit on by ruthless, but kind, men. When they asked us if we wanted to go out that night, where we wanted to go, where we wanted to meet, we decided to say polite "no" answers in the form of "hmmm no sabemos. es posible". It probably took a good five minutes to get the message across... because we are too nice. The churros at San Augustin... I mean, I can hardly mention them without tears coming to my eyes. They. were. amazing. They were filled with chocolate and strawberry, and I just have absolutely no complaints. At night, I went with my friends Traci and Caitlin (okay that's kind of a lie- we started out in a big group of Americans, but then we gradually broke off into less obnoxious pieces) to a bar with live music called Nivel Cero. Again, I had a michelada con clamato y indio (Indio is the name of a beer here. It definitely irks me so I try not to order it too often, but I've found it goes well in a michelada).

This morning we ate breakfast in the hotel in San Miguel (Hotel Real de Minas, I think). We left to return to Guanajuato straight from San Miguel in the morning. One night in San Miguel definitely doesn't do the place justice, so I hope to return when my sister comes to visit. Despite taking dramamine for the curvey ride back to Gto, I eventually woke up and went with my roommate Sam to el mercadito (little market) by our house here. I also visited jewelry places and of course, got ice cream. Afterwards, we went to the University of Gto to watch an Italian independent film for 20 pesos (under $2), and it was fabulous. The theatre was surrounded by modern art done by students. I felt pretty artsy.

Tomorrow a new week at Las Libres begins, and I would really like to do a thorough job with the grant applications, so... I'm going to :)

Nos vemos,
Blair

"Who wants tacos?? Just me? Okay then."

We went to el cereso again yesterday, and this time it was much easier to enter. I went with Maggie, one of the original women at Las Libres, and Allison, another volunteer from the U.S. who recently earned a degree in Social Work. Although Allison and I had to remove nose/ear jewelry, after (depending on the piercing) perhaps years of having them in, the process to enter went much smoother this time around. However, there was a different atmosphere to the visit with the women this time because one of the women was released after two years. What is so astounding and beautiful is that she was possibly going to be sentenced to DECADES more in the prison, but because of the legal support of Las Libres, she was freed. A lot of the workers here were crying when they found out. So, we went to the prison, and suddenly there were only seven women there. They seemed very happy for the freed woman, but still pained that their sentences were just beginning, despite the fact that many of the women have been in the prison for seven years. As I spoke with them (or tried to), I became very emotional, being unable to fathom what forty years feels like in a prison. I’ve only lived for half that amount of time.

Because we’re writing applications for grants for the defense of these women, Allison and I decided to ask them personal questions that would humanize their stories for donors. We asked them where they were from, how old they were, and if they had children. Many of them had at least one child. They proceeded to tell us about their kids and their birthdays—one was born on Christmas. After hearing the women speak about their children, I couldn’t ask any more questions. There I was, a privileged college student visiting the prison for the amount of time that I so choose, and I didn’t want to exploit them. After all, I take the birth control pill, and if I didn’t have education or the money to fund it, and the support from the states in which I’ve lived, I could be in a similar situation. It is unexplainably unjust that I was born in one place, they in another, and that’s it. That’s the difference in our lives.

The women also told me about their educational experiences and jobs outside of el cereso. One is a teacher, and many of them are taking classes in el cereso. However, the areas of studies available to them are limited to “male-dominated” fields, only two in fact: industrial and mechanical engineering. Other limitations of el cereso, besides the obvious ones that it puts one’s life on hold and takes an unfathomable toll on a person’s sense of self, are that many of the women are illiterate, or have not had much education. In addition, the women in the prison were poor before they were sentenced. In the prison, there is little they can do to earn money for themselves. Because of this, a few of the women sew purses, give them to the women at Las Libres, and Las Libres sells them.

Inside of the roof of the patio we sit in to talk there are TONS of birds- mamas, babies, etc. I listened to six of the women (because one works in the kitchen) talk about how sad it is to find that eggs with developing baby birds have fallen to the ground. I almost cried right then and there. These are some of the most compassionate women I have ever met. They asked me about my life—my studies, my family, where I’m from. I need to help them.

The last thing I want to share, in regards to Las Libres, is one thing that motivates me:

In Germany they first came for the Communists,
and I didn't speak up because I wasn't a Communist.

Then they came for the Jews,
and I didn't speak up because I wasn't a Jew.

Then they came for the trade unionists,
and I didn't speak up because I wasn't a trade unionist.

Then they came for the Catholics,
and I didn't speak up because I was a Protestant.

Then they came for me —

and by that time no one was left to speak up.

The idea is that if one group of people is not free then no one is free.

Okay, so yesterday was an eventful day. After going to el cereso, Allison and I took a bus to el centro—which is about 35 minutes from our houses. We walked back and- oops forgot my umbrella- I was the stubborn fast-walking American that refused to wait under shelter for the rain to pass. So I walked back, changed out of my drenched clothes into sweats, and watched a movie, illegally, for a smidge online. Then we had lunch...

Lunch: IS AMAZING EVERY DAY. I have yet to be disappointed with anything I’ve been served—which says a lot, because I tend to be a wuss around new food (although I will try it). Sam and I skipped out on the intercambios that day. Intercambios are when English-learning and Spanish-learning students get together to go to a café, or something of the like, just to talk for a bit in each language. I definitely need to go to one eventually. I’m a little nervous though, because as fast as Mexican adults speak here, the speech of Mexican students is even scarier to decipher (for me). However, at seven Sam and I went to listen to classical music (fun, but too calm for me and my mosquito-bitten, restless, selectively claustrophobic self), and then ran straight to a contemporary dance concert that was AWESOME. It was very similar to the contemporary dance concerts at CSU, so I knew to expect weird things to happen.

Afterwards, Sam and I got ice cream (pistachio for me) and then I went to Why Not (which is exactly what it sounds like—a bar for gringos). I had a michelada again (slowly becoming one of my favorite drinks), and who could forget the tequila shot that ALWAYS seems to arise from nowhere when I go to Why Not... don’t worry, I take responsibility for taking it. Afterwards a few of us migrated to “El Bar”, a salsa/merigue bar, to mingle and dance. I danced with a sufficient number of old men (their idea, not mine!) and had a Corona, because they didn’t have XX L. Sad, right? After El Bar, I dragged a few friends with me to my new favorite late-night taco place, as was mentioned in the previous entry. As usual, I enjoyed it. Unusually, I was the only person who got something. (Do you people not have any unhealthy after-drinking habits?)

Overall, very successful night.

Today, as cannot be ignored, was the first game of EL COPA MUNDIAAAAAL. Don’t know what that means? (GOOOOOOOOAAAAAAALLLLL). Mexico played South Africa, and they tied. I had a Mexican flag on my face and everything. It was truly fantastic. Now I’m at Las Libres (I promise I’d be working if the internet were working). The plan is to go home for another fantastic lunch (around 3 or 4), and then, energy-permitting, go to the lake here with some amigos. It is so beautiful! I would love to swim, because, aqui hace calor (it’s hot here).

Hasta pronto,

Blair (Bren, as Spaniards call me; Blear, as Mexicans do)

Las Libres is my caffeine

Michelada

Okay, so, I do realize that over two weeks have passed in my time here in Guanajuato. Thing is, I didn't feel inspired and energized enough to write in here until now. The reason for my sudden inspiration involves my work at Centro Las Libres, a women's reproductive rights organization. The importance of this organization in a conservative state like Guanajuato cannot be overstated. There are many women imprisoned here for having abortions, and whether they are failed, intentional, accidental, or successful often is no matter to the courts. In addition, the situation is complicated by the fact that there are liberal judges and conservative judges. So, a woman's fate is also often at the whim of the personal beliefs of the judge. The judge must decide if she/he believes the woman's abortion was justified, and also if it qualifies as homicide, which for many judges, most abortions do. Because of this situation, there are 8 women imprisoned in el cereso here that we (whichever three women from the organization) visit with every Thursday.

My task at Las Libres is to help write grant applications to organizations in the U.S. that are advocates of women's human rights. We (Allison, Jecca, and I- the three gringas) are in charge of writing grant applications, creating a boletín (bulletin) of all the work Las Libres is doing (and why they are doing it), and also for making a pamphlet for people in the U.S. who may want to donate to the cause.

Before I began researching organizations to apply to for grants, I was translating articles written about the amazing women at Las Libres, in particular about the head organizer, Veronica Cruz Sanchez. In addition, I was reading through experimentes, or the legal documents, full of redundancy and blunt testimonies (also with graphic, too-real photo-copied pictures of a baby/fetus that was born dead). The particular case to which I am referring ended in the incarceration of a woman here because she was accused of having a failed abortion (which is considered homicide).

These are the situations of the women we visit in el cereso. When you visit, you must receive uncomfortable pat-downs, be wearing a not-too-low-cut shirt (or else you'll have to change it, or you cannot enter), remove your earrings, bring only your ID... by the time you get to visit the women, you (and by you, I mean me) are hungry, exhausted, and fed up, particularly because there is a new director at el cereso who is tightening security measures for those who visit. I am going for the second time tomorrow, and I hope that we can at least bring in a notebook and pencil to record some of the stories of the women, but who knows.

Today, after talking with the director of Las Libres, Vero, I am inspired. I was instantaneously motivated to fill out grant applications. First, I felt like I should record my feelings, as it is the first time I've felt inspired enough to actually write in this blog!

The programs outside of my time at Las Libres with International Studies Abroad cannot compare to the things I am set up to do here. We (las tres gringas) have lots of work to do.

To read about my amazing director at Las Libres, please visit http://www.more.com/2050/22134-the-most-dangerous-women-in . It's an article called "The Most Dangerous Women in the World".

However, I cannot ignore the amazingly cool things I've gotten to do on the weekends and after my time at Las Libres (I'm here from 11-4 M-F). We visited the pyramids at Teotihuacan and hiked up El Piramide del Sol. It was a very surreal experience, especially upon registering that people actually used to live there. I could not help but bring my Ethnic Studies-driven thoughts into the situation, thinking, "If this culture wouldn't have fled in the first place, they would have been devastated by diseases and guns anyway"... yep, my Ethnic Studies-driven thoughts are pretty morbid, pretty blunt, and pretty true...

The next day we ventured to La Bufa, for a freaking difficult hike. Despite completely eating it on the way down, the hike was great. The view from the top is awesome, and not much compares to eating a peanut butter and jelly sandwich on top of a mountain in Guanajuato. After this hike, pretty exhausted already, Sam (my roommate) and I ventured to el lago (the lake) in Guanajuato with one of the directors of our program. It was another mini-hike in itself to get to the lake, and my hands and legs were pretty torn up. However, jumping in the beautiful cool water made the battle wounds well worth it. We were with a guy as well, one of the director's friends, because bringing a dude with you saves you from verbal harassment. Well, he was a character. He kept taking pictures of us swimming, telling us (instead of "say cheese!" or "whiskey!") say "wiejr9ajwthrehhrt8t" (insert made-up Mexican word). We laughed so hard that we had trouble staying above water. Afterwards, we ventured around the lake a little bit to find a tiny community of people visiting with each other outside of a very old church. It's adventures like this one that really make me feel like my petty worries, brought to Mexico from the U.S., whether about school or past significant others or the future or my family, can disappear for a bit.

Other experiences outside of Las Libres have included salsa lessons, going out in Guanajuato (great night life here). My favorite bar so far is Zilch, a trendy, pretty place with good music and micheladas.

Michelada (according to Wikipedia): The Michelada or cerveza preparada is a term loosely defining a Mexican alcoholic beverage made withbeer, lime juice and assorted sauces, spices, peppers, tomato juices or Clamato^[1]. It is served in a chilled salt rimmed glass.^[2] There are numerous variations of the beverage throughout Mexico and Latin America.^[3] A common variation includes Clamato or Tomato juice.^[4]

It's definitely different, but I enjoy them!

We've also visited an amazing taco bar. Nothing can beat this late-night snack.

More experiences consist of time spent in museums, such as the museum of Diego Rivera,

which is actually in his old house. In addition, today, we're going to the Museum of Don Quijote

(can't ignore Cervantes here). This weekend, we're going on an excursion to San Miguel de

Allende and Dolores Hidalgo to visit banearios (like hot springs) and to see where el grito

began the Mexican battle for independence.

Also, I can't ignore the many bugs that have inhabited Sam and I's room. The most

"interesting", or in other words, "terrifying", being the scorpion from our first week. Luckily,

Sam

is not as big a wuss as I am. Other friendly creatures include many a june bug, mosquito, fly, and

moth. These things are balanced out by the fact that we consistently have hummingbirds in our

backyard, and two dogs that come in and out of the house, Lady, and Campanita (Tinker Bell), a

three month old Chihuahua.

Other house inhabitants are Fatima and Eddie, the parents. They are some of the kindest people

on this earth. Their "children" are Louis (in Miami), Fatima, Auxi, and Jesus. Fatima (kid Fatima)

has two kids that are also frequenters of the house, and Lourdes, a super sweet woman,

helps with housework.

...There are more. Jecca was initally on her own in the house... until Sam and I showed up.

Afterwards came three more students that are doing a teaching program in Guanajuato, Daniel,

Michelle, and Irene.

Everyone gets along nicely. It'd be hard not to, with all of the accomodations made for us by

Fatima and Lourdes. I cannot complain about our living situation in the least. I love everyone in

our house.

Pues, I should get to grant-writing. Thanks for reading and I definitely plan on updating more

during my time here, which is, by the way, until July 4. I am also 95% sure that after my

program my sister Ashley will come visit me so that we can spend time in Guanajuato for her

birthday, then travel to a beach and to Guadalajara, and Jalisco in general, because we're on a

mission to reclaim the old land of our ancestors. We will find it, put a flag in it, and live there.

Hasta luego. Que te vaya bien,

Blair